Chimney Sweep

From the Journal: Room To Roam

The rugged coastline with its steep cliffs, wild seas and biting winds welcomes us to Mendocino County, California. The slogan “room to roam” is no exaggeration. Here, social distancing is a way of life. And I’m for it.

Do not get me wrong; Living in the big city has its perks, but we all need to commune with nature for our mental, physical, and emotional well-being. The entire county’s population of nearly 100,000 pales in comparison to the nearly one million residents of San Francisco who live a three-hour drive south of the eponymous city of Mendocino (pop. 800). A getaway to this remote northern part of the state rewards those willing to stray off the beaten path (literally, but more on that later) with a collection of charming towns, countless outdoor activities, towering redwood forests, and an underestimated wine region.

Coastal community of Mendocino

When planning the trip, it is important to determine whether a hotel is just a place to relax at the end of the day, or whether it is an experience in itself. A non-stop trek from attraction to attraction calls for a place to sleep, but if you’re looking for tranquility, majestic scenery, and a hectic atmosphere, then the Inn at Newport Ranch is the place for you. The luxurious retreat sits on 2,000 acres of private cattle ranch on sweeping cliffs. If you really want to get away from it all, this resort only accommodates 20 guests and an additional 10 at the owner’s oceanfront home (if available). The only time we saw other guests was at the meal, where we enjoyed dishes prepared with produce from the on-site gardens (think herbs, spices, squat vegetables, potatoes) and locally sourced fish and meat.

The hotel’s property is home to multiple microclimates, from sunny coastal meadows to cool and humid redwood forests, and the best way to experience them all is on a private UTV tour. If you visit us next winter, wrap yourself in the woolen blanket provided by your guide and snuggle up. Flat pastures give way to towering forests, and then it’s up to the top of the ridge, where we caught (at a safe distance) a bobcat sunbathing.

UTV in Mendocino

With a focus on ecotourism and sustainability, the hotel has planted nearly 11,000 redwood seedlings over the past three years and invites guests to plant and name a tree during their stay. Other ways to reconnect with nature include a mushroom picking tour with the in-house mushroom expert, gourmet picnics by the sea, amazing sunset happy hour among the cliffs, horseback riding, whale watching (in spring and fall), and even an oh-so-soothing experience Massage at the resort’s underground, forest-like spa. If you want to take your relaxation to the next level, book the restorative wellness retreat package, which includes a private yoga session, guided hike, forest bath and massage.

Track bikes in Mendocino

If you want to stay just a four minute drive from shops and restaurants, book a room at the Brewery Gulch Inn in Mendocino. Perched on a hillside overlooking picturesque Smuggler’s Cove, this rustic luxury hotel welcomes guests to its warm, homely Grand Room, complete with a four-sided glass and steel fireplace. Your stay includes daily breakfast and an afternoon wine hour with curated appetizer mendo boxes that really could double as dinner given the amount of food. Our box for two, which we enjoyed outside on the patio, consisted of a beet salad, half a chicken, a potato side and an apple crepe. And we paired it with a local Pinot Noir from Fathers & Daughters.

For a bit of adventure, head to the Skunk Train’s railbikes. Choose between a 2-hour, 7-mile excursion or a longer 4-hour, 25-mile drive into the forest (this tour includes a complimentary picnic lunch). In any case, being athletic shouldn’t be a problem as the electric bikes allow you to choose to cycle as much or as little as you like. When you ride a railway into the forest, you feel a real connection to nature as the wind whips around you and the ancient redwoods tower overhead. This is one of the coolest outdoor experiences I’ve encountered.

TRAVEL ADVICE

GO

Fly from South Florida to Santa Rosa (2 hours drive), San Francisco (3 hours drive) or Sacramento (4 hours drive), rent a car and drive north. If you choose to stay at the Inn at Newport Ranch, ascend by asking the hotel to arrange a helicopter to take you up the coast.

REMAIN

Inn at Newport Ranch

BREWERY GULCH INN
Warm and welcoming, centrally located hotel that makes you feel at home. 9401 CA-1, Mendocino, CA; 800/578-4454; brauereigulchinn.com

Inn at Newport Ranch
Stunning views, luxurious accommodations on a working oceanfront ranch. 31502 CA-1, Fort Bragg, CA; 707/962-4818; theinnatnewportranch.com

FOOD

Bee Hunter tasting room

SMALL RIVER INN RESTAURANT
Romantic gardens with coastal kitchen.
7901 N. Highway 1, Little River, CA; 707/937-5942; littleriverinn.com

MACCALLUM HOUSE
The hotel restaurant serves divine farm-to-table organic dishes. 45020 Albion St., Mendocino, CA; 707/937-0289; maccallumhouse.com

Gulp

BEE HUNTER
Picturesque tasting room serving a variety of red, white and rosé wines. 14251 Highway 128, Boonville, CA; 707/895-3995; beeunderwine.com

A bite at Handley Cellars

HANDLEY CELLAR
Family-run winery that produces fruity wines. 3151 Highway 128, Philo, CA; 707/895-3876; handleycellars.com

Nachlas Roederer
French superstars are now producing sparkling wines across the ocean. 4501 Highway 128, Philo, California; 707/895-2288; roederestate.com

DO

SKUNK TRAIN RAILWAY WHEELS
Cycle through the redwood forest on electric bikes. 707/964-6371; skunktrain.com/railbikes-on-the-noyo

llama feeding
Glendeven Inn & Lodge hosts nightly llama feedings. 8205 N. Highway 1, Little River, CA; 707/937-0083; glendeven.com

DRIVE THRU TREE PARK
Understand how big sequoias can get by driving through one. 67402 Drive Thru Tree Road, Leggett, CA; 707/925-6464; drivethrutree.com

Mendocino

Other activities to consider include the Chandelier Drive-Thru Redwood (1.5 hour drive from Mendocino), where visitors have been driving through one of these majestic trees since 1937. Closer to town, the Glendeven Inn & Lodge hosts daily feedings for its three resident llamas, and if you’re visiting in March, be sure to board a whale-watching boat at Noyo Harbor in Fort Gragg in the hopes of spotting the to catch migrating gray whales.

Another way to experience nature is by sipping on the selection of wines produced in the region. The Mendocino County AVA is home to several sub-appellations, including two of the better-known Anderson Valley and Yorkville. Mendocino is one of the largest wine-producing counties in the state. While it’s famous for its Pinot Noirs and sparkling wines, it also grows Zinfandel, Grenache, Barbera, and Sauvignon Blanc, among others.

A Mendocino winery

Redwood chandelier

Glendeven Inn Llamas

Famed French champagne house Louis Roederer established its Anderson Valley Roederer Estate in 1982, earning a reputation for producing renowned sparkling wine in the region. We also visited Handley Cellars, a winery on a working family farm, just down the road. Started by one of the first women winemakers in the area, Milla Handley, the 30 hectares are now farmed by her daughter Lulu and she produces aromatic, organically grown estate wines ranging from Chardonnay to Pinot Noir.

Further south in Boonville, bee hunter duo Ali Nemo and Andy DuVigneaud pour you Syrahs, Pinot Noirs and Rhone blends. On your way back to Mendocino, take a quick detour to the seaside village of Elk, stop at the general store (famous for its sandwiches) and cross the road to the state park, which is dotted with massive rocks that will make you feel like you it would be I entered The Goonies.

This article is from the March 2023 issue of Boca Magazine. For more of this, click here to subscribe to the magazine.

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