Shopping for Alaska cruises can often lead to analysis paralysis, with so many different options to consider. Most big ship cruises follow a similar routing, with most calling at Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway at a minimum — but that’s where the similarities end.

Alaska’s destination appeal has also broadened. The state once fully embraced its position on so many travelers’ “trip of a lifetime” lists in its marketing efforts, and many travelers are indeed visiting for the first time on journeys they might consider to be the pinnacle of their travel adventures. But many travelers are repeat visitors, having visited perhaps on a big ship cruise and returning again to try a different itinerary or a cruise tour to a lesser-traveled part of the state.

If you’re considering an Alaska cruise, here are several questions to get answered in the earliest stages of planning to help narrow the field of options.

Big ship or small ship?

You won’t find the largest megaships cruising Alaskan waters, but some of them are close. The largest ships cruising to Alaska in the summer of 2023 top out just under 5,000 passengers, but most range between 2,000 and 3,000. Princess Cruises and Royal Caribbean are currently deploying the largest ships to Alaska.

There are also small ship cruise lines, like UnCruise Adventures, National Geographic Expeditions and Alaskan Dream Cruises. They don’t offer as many onboard amenities as the big ships (you won’t find a casino) but their tradeoff is they can get into much more secluded parts of the Inside Passage, and wildlife will be more visible closer to the water.

Travelers seeking a balance might try cruise lines sailing medium-sized ships, typically in the luxury sector, including Silversea, Seabourn or Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

Does the cruise line matter?

Alaska cruise lines range from the world’s most well-known mass-market cruise lines to intimate expedition ships and luxury yachts.

Travelers absolutely set on cruising Glacier Bay should know that the park entrance permits are allocated by seniority, so the cruise lines with the longest histories of cruising Alaska generally get the most permits. Holland America Line and Princess Cruises, both longtime operators in Alaska, generally tend to have the most permits. Those two cruise lines also offer a standout amenity: passengers on select fishing excursions can have their catch prepared and served to them in the dining room onboard the ship.

Choice of cruise line can also affect the land experience. Princess and Holland America Line operate as almost a joint venture in Alaska shore operations, and their Carnival Corp stablemates Carnival Cruises, Seabourn and Cunard all benefit from that infrastructure.

Separately, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity have their own combined land operation in Alaska, which has been noted by passengers for its quality.

It’s worth noting that the largest cruise lines typically rely on seasonal summer workers to staff their shore operations. In contrast, many of the smaller ship lines or lines with smaller footprints in Alaska may rely more heavily on local operators with local staff — so if that’s the experience travelers are seeking, it’s another thing to take into consideration.

Most cruise brands to great lengths to tailor their experiences on Alaska sailings to capture the essence of the destination—Princess Cruises, for example, focuses on provisioning a bounty of Alaska-caught seafood for passenger meals, while Holland America Line brings Glacier Bay park rangers and Huna Lingít guides onboard to share their knowledge with passengers.

Is a balcony stateroom worth the cost?

More than perhaps any other destination (in my opinion) balcony staterooms are worth it in Alaska. Most Alaska itineraries include some component of scenic cruising, and cruises up the Inside Passage have no shortage of scenery for much of the voyage.

There’s also a practical application. When planning for a day ashore at an Alaskan port, it helps to be able to step outside and get a feel for the temperature—smartphone weather apps only go so far, and 60 degrees Fahrenheit hits differently in Alaska than it does other places. Is it humid? Windy? Cool? A balcony stateroom means that first “feel” of the weather is just a step away instead of down a long corridor and up to an open deck.

Round trip or one way to Alaska?

Yes, Alaska cruise itineraries offer both options. One-way itineraries typically sail from either Whittier or Seward (the nearest airport for both is Anchorage) to Vancouver, British Columbia. Round-trip sailings to Alaska often start and end in Seattle or — less frequently — San Francisco.

Round-trip itineraries are generally offered on larger ships and sometimes have time for fewer Alaskan ports or scenic cruising because Customs formalities require a stop in Canada (typically Victoria, BC) on the itinerary. They can also have higher cruise fares because the convenience factor of embarking and disembarking the same port makes them slightly more popular, but it must also be noted that the 7-day sailings only visit southeast Alaska before returning south — skipping south-central Alaska entirely.

The one-way itineraries embarking from either Anchorage or Vancouver are perfect for travelers wishing to extend their journeys on either side. On the Alaska side, each cruise line has its preferred port (Whittier or Seward). Whittier is closer to Anchorage, but there’s spectacular scenery to be seen on the journey via rail or coach from Seward (where there are also some pretty fantastic excursions and lodges to explore before heading north).

Cruise or cruise tour?

Many Alaska cruises are sold in combination with land packages to Denali and parts of the interior. There are a couple of things to watch out for on these, as the experience will differ from the cruise portion.

Most notably, the land portion of cruise tours do not include meals, so guests who were enjoying an endless stream of food onboard the ship will find themselves suddenly having to take out their wallets again. Cruise tours also have more regimented schedules involving several early mornings for train or coach departures. The benefit of a cruise tour, however, is paying a single price for the entire trip, and having the ability to prebook excursions and activities from a single portal without the need to sift through seemingly endless independent options at each stop.

Travelers who prefer a more freestyle pace touring, either before or after their cruise, may wish to book the cruise-only and make their own tour arrangements in Alaska, but there’s one important note — it’s worthwhile booking transfers between either Whittier or Seward and Anchorage, as independent transfers and rental cars in both ports can be hard to come by. Consider Anchorage the true beginning or end of the cruise for the smoothest transition from land to sea.

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Isit in my office shed while the squirrel in front of me eats the last of the summer tomatoes. He’s sitting on the other side of the glass in the corner of the raised bed, with an expression on his face that says, I thought you wanted to see this.

Beyond the squirrel, a man in a hard hat uses a chainsaw to cut up a linden tree in the alley along the garden wall. In between cuts, my wife yells at him that maybe he could come over to see a tree on our side of the wall.

It is the last corner of the year, a traditional time to get in the mood for the coming winter. This year I gave myself a full 30 days to inspect the summer damage: The rail with which the trash can slide into its trough is locked; the window in the garden door, which had cracked its entire length after slamming in a strong wind; the toilet flush valve on the first floor – pissed off again.

When the 30 days passed, I performed a messy operation on the trash can’s sliding drawer, and for the second time this year, I replaced the toilet’s broken mechanism. It is clear that a more permanent solution is needed. On the flip side, buying a £ 28 flush valve unit annually may be a luxury I can afford.

An hour later the tree man comes by to talk about our cherry tree. I leave my office and wave.

“If I could, I would just reduce it,” says my wife. “But he won’t let me.”

“You would miss it if it was gone,” I say.

“No, I wouldn’t,” she says in a tone that suggests that there are many things she wouldn’t miss.

The tree man offers a third way to save marriage – crowning the tree to reduce its height, let in more light, and maintain its overall shape. But he can’t do it until December.

“December?” says my wife. “I want it to be ready now so I don’t have to rake leaves.”

“We’re very busy,” says the tree man. In fact, they have never been this busy – with the possibility of a second lockdown, people rush to put their immediate surroundings in order.

“He doesn’t,” says my wife, pointing at me again.

“Toilet,” I say, holding up a thumbs up, followed by an index finger. “Container.”

“It’s been like this since the summer,” says the tree man.

“I know,” I say. “Try to get a chimney sweep to call you back.”

“I can imagine that,” says the tree man.

“Imagine you’re not trying so hard,” says my wife.

The truth is, I’m a little scared of chimney sweeps. The whole profession seems to me to be anchored in old superstitions. Their websites boast the latest in imaging equipment, but among the services listed you can often find “Weddings for good luck.” Half in the shade, half in the light.

The last chimney sweep to come into the house was recommended by the wood stove installer. I asked him to sweep a second chimney in the kitchen where the previous owner had installed a much smaller stove.

“We don’t really use it,” I said, “just in case.”

“I’m not going anywhere near it,” he said, looking down.

“Why?” I said. “Is it cursed?”

He didn’t answer. In fact, he cleaned the other chimney and left without saying a word.

Chimney sweep websites also have a magical way of making them appear nearby – “Local Acton Sweep” – even though their mailing address is actually in Kent.

“So far I have only received a brief answer,” I tell my wife that evening. “From a man who said I wasn’t around and recommended someone to join me.”

“Yes?” says my wife.

“A sweep that, like the others, rejects any attempt at contact,” I say.

“It’s her busy time,” she says.

“They all shine in the wedding pictures, but there is something very dark at work here.”

“You’re just trying to make me do it, aren’t you?” She says.

“Of course,” I say. “I don’t even want to be here when they come.”

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