Have lip and cheek tints replaced blush? What’s next after ombre lips, graphic eyeliners and glazed nails? Which magic ingredient might succeed rosemary oil and glycolic acid? At the top beauty companies, trends are more long-wearing than you’d expect. Paul Lee, managing director and country head of Amorepacific Group (Laneige, Etude, Sulwhasoo and Innisfree); Vivek Sahni, founder and chairman of Kama Ayurveda; and Samir Kumaar Modi, founder and managing director at Colobar Cosmetics predict the next big beauty trends.
Even Brown skin needs SPF. “Anticipate a surge in groundbreaking sunscreen formulas, including lightweight and non-greasy textures,” says Lee. Sahni says that Indian companies are investing heavily in R&D for sun protection, to introduce ingredients that mimic the ones found in nature.
Tinted lip balms. Light hint of colour, lots of moisture, sometimes sun protection too. The year ahead will see more of this popular staple because of their “natural gradient effect and buildable intensity,” says Lee.
Korea via India. Korean products, techniques and regimes have become so popular in the beauty industry that Indian brands are tapping into the craze, launching products with ingredients typically associated with Korean products. Pilgrim has a Korean Beauty Flawless Skin range, Colobar has a Crystal Glow Face Gloss to achieve glasslike skin, D’you’s In My Defence moisturiser is lighter, with SPF. “What’s noteworthy is how India’s longstanding tradition of incorporating natural elements into beauty practices seamlessly converges with the ethos of K-beauty,” Modi says.
A shorter routine. Korean beauty regimes have a bad rep for being too elaborate. Do we really need 10-step nightly skincare? We don’t. Quicker, effective routines will be the way forward, and there will be an effort to educate Indian consumers on which steps work (and don’t) for their individual needs.
The label check. Beauty brands are becoming more open about the formulation of their products, putting out full lists of ingredients on the label or on their websites to warm against allergens, advertise that they are cruelty-free or even vegan. “Being transparent about ingredients can build trust with consumers,” says Lee.
The colour spectrum. Beauty brands are finally realising that Indian skin tones are much more diverse than Light, Wheatish and Dark. Maybelline’s Fit Me range has 18 shades of foundation. The newly launched Lovechild By Masaba has 18 too. American brand Fenty, recently launched in India, has 47! There’s no one product in the market that can offer all solutions and suits all skin types and problems, points out Lee. Modi says “brands have clearly recognised the importance of embracing diversity and introduced an array of shades to cater to the wide spectrum of Indian skin tones and undertones.”
Ayurveda goes global. Products labelled “natural” aren’t necessarily better for the skin or for the Earth. But ayurvedic beauty products are increasingly popular outside India — domestic brands Forest Essentials and Kama Ayurveda now have stores in London. “This growth can be attributed to rising consumer awareness about natural and balanced solutions and the popularity of slow beauty, in which products deliver results over the long term,” Sahni says.
Men are shopping too. Sahni says men are “becoming more conscious of their appearance and seeking grooming products tailored to their specific needs, such as shaving, facial hair maintenance and sun protection”.
Ageing is changing. “Don’t frown or you’ll get wrinkles.” “Start using retinol from your 20s.” “This hair colour would be lovely to cover your greys.” Growing old isn’t about fighting the clock anymore. Products promising younger looking skin are no longer the key driver for skincare. Hair colour is about personality, not covering greys.
Hair and heritage. “Indian consumers are increasingly relying on age-old recipes for good hair, going back to what their grandmothers and mothers have used,” says Sahni. “They are also seeking products rich in phytoactive molecules such as flavonoids and phytosterols, to reinvigorate the scalp.”
Less is more. Instead of relying solely on makeup, Indian consumers are investing in skincare. “They seek products that target specific concerns and promote overall skin health,” says Modi. he says that the pandemic accelerated this shift. Sahni adds the coming year will also signal a shift away from heavy makeup, and towards a more subtle approach, “in which the focus is on healthy, glowing skin”. Lee highlights the soaring popularity of cleansing balms, which serve as both gentle makeup removers and deep cleansers.
From HT Brunch, March 30, 2024
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