Gigi Chow moved to Dubrovnik, Croatia with the intention of getting a digital nomad visa, but she most likely won’t stay. Escapades with a wet nose
- Gigi Chow spent years as a digital nomad before deciding to settle down in 2021.
- Because of the rising crime rate, she and her partner did not want to move to San Francisco in the long term.
- They traveled to Croatia to get a digital nomad visa, but Dubrovnik had its downsides.
This essay is based on a transcribed conversation with Gigi Chow, a digital nomad and former government agency manager. The following has been edited for length and clarity.
In 2016, I quit my job as a manager at a government agency in San Francisco to travel. My friends and family were shocked that I had to give up a steady job and a steady paycheck.
My partner and I planned to travel for 18 months – as long as we could afford – and then settle back into San Francisco.
When we started traveling we fell in love with the nomadic lifestyle
From 2016 to 2021 we lived as nomads, visiting cities in Europe, Asia and Latin America.
To fund our journey, I became a consultant and contractor, doing freelance work like content marketing, copywriting, and ghostwriting. I have also recruited freelance staff.
My husband, who was previously a finance manager, transferred his skills and experience to managing private portfolios remotely.
When everything closed down in 2020 due to the pandemic, we were in Barcelona, Spain and stayed there until things reopened. We returned to the US in 2021 to get married but had no plans to stay long term.
Rents in San Francisco had fallen slightly because of the pandemic. We started paying $2,200 for a one bedroom apartment. Despite finding a great deal, we were dying to leave.
San Francisco isn’t what it used to be
I grew up in San Francisco and my family lives there. There is nowhere to avoid homelessness, but San Francisco’s homeless problem has become overwhelming. I find it difficult to walk my dog. There are tents everywhere.
There is also a lot of crime. When we came back in 2021, car break-ins were so common that people were leaving notes on their windshields saying, ‘Please don’t break into this car. There is nothing of value here.”
After our marriage we traveled to South America for eight months before I returned to San Francisco to visit my parents.
I considered moving back to be closer to them, but the situation in town hadn’t improved. We were exhausted from constant travel and wanted to put down roots somewhere.
We considered where to move and decided on Dubrovnik in Croatia
We had already visited Dubrovnik twice, in 2016 and 2019. Many Croatians we met spoke English which was a big plus.
We knew that there is a digital nomad visa in Croatia. Expats I spoke to said that as long as you earn at least €2,300 a month, you can get a 12-month residency permit relatively easily.
Dubrovnik is a beautiful castle town of 41,000 people overlooking the Adriatic Sea. It’s a million dollar view without the million dollar price.
We wanted to test whether we would like to live there long-term
We arrived in March 2023 on a 3 month tourist visa. Being in Dubrovnik for so long was very different from staying as a tourist.
We found a short term furnished rental for $1,300 a month. It’s more expensive than a long-term furnished apartment, but it was a great size, including utilities and weekly housekeeping. In San Francisco, our total housing and utilities came to about $2,760.
Groceries in Croatia cost us about $1,500 a month. In San Francisco, our budget was at least $2,200.
Croatia is affordable and relaxing, but there are downsides too
I love the slower pace of Dubrovnik. It’s clean and we don’t need a car to get around. Since it’s a small place, people recognized me after a few weeks. I found that creepy.
San Francisco is so populated that everyone is free to go about their business. People move around and you’ll never know unless they’re new neighbors.
Dubrovnik is a tourist city. The local population is small and the families living there have been there for generations. Everyone knows everyone, so I really stand out.
I’m new but I’m also Asian. I have experienced what I call “unintentional racism”. I don’t think it’s malicious intent, but I’ve received comments and gestures.
People will ask me, “Where are you from?” After the answer, “I was born and raised in California,” the most common response is, “Oh, you don’t look American.” Then they mimic my stereotypical Asian eye shape. I have to explain that my parents are Chinese.
I’m not offended, but I figured I’d always felt accepted in San Francisco because it’s such a multicultural city, while Dubrovnik isn’t.
Sometimes when I walk my dog, the locals start talking to me in Chinese or Japanese. I think this is because they are more used to Asian tourists than Asian American tourists.
There seems to be a lack of awareness that America is a very diverse country. I’m just as American as someone of European descent.
Resident amenities are limited
Since I don’t really cook, restaurants are important to me. As a tourist I didn’t think about it, but as a resident I was surprised that the food was so expensive. That’s because many of the restaurants cater to tourists.
It’s not like traveling to Thailand, where the food, tourist or not, is good and cheap. A lot of the food I’ve eaten in Dubrovnik is prepared for a one-time visitor. Locals eat at home as it is too expensive to eat out.
I am traveling with my dog Roger. This town is so small that there are only two childcare options for him. The veterinarian or animal hospital.
I’m used to googling “vets near me” and finding ten within a 2 mile radius. Then I can be selective and check reviews. But here’s the rule: take what you can get and hope for the best.
Get in touch with expats before you think about moving
If you are considering moving to Dubrovnik, I strongly recommend that you get in touch with the expat community first.
There are many Facebook and Instagram pages. Try to get in touch with people who are in a similar situation to you. They can give you a better sense of what to expect in the city. It’s more realistic than googling yourself.
I didn’t do it because I was here, but when you stay here longer it’s different. We will probably move to East Asia at the end of our three month stay and will not apply for the nomad visa.
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